Issey Miyake Bi-Material Coat - Archive Collection

Cavalli e Nastri Archive -- Archival piece preserved as part of Cavalli e Nastri's fashion heritage and research collection.


A striking expression of Issey Miyake's sculptural approach to outerwear, this archive coat balances architectural volume with rich textural contrasts. Drawing inspiration from traditional Japanese garments while embracing contemporary experimentation, the design combines clean geometric lines with tactile materials to create a silhouette that is both dramatic and effortless.

The coat is cut in an oversized, trapeze silhouette with dropped shoulders and generous sleeves that create a fluid, cocoon-like shape. Inspired by the proportions of the traditional Japanese haori, its relaxed construction allows the fabric to move naturally while maintaining a bold architectural presence. The asymmetrical hem, slightly longer at the back, reinforces the garment's dynamic geometry.

A defining feature is the striking bi-material construction. The upper section is crafted in plush charcoal-grey faux fur with a softly shaded finish, enveloping the shoulders and upper body in rich texture. In contrast, the lower portion is executed in deep black velvet, whose smooth, light-absorbing surface creates an elegant visual balance between softness and structure.

The high funnel collar enhances the sculptural silhouette while providing a refined, minimalist finish. An asymmetrical front closure is secured by oversized engraved metal buttons, introducing an industrial accent that contrasts beautifully with the luxurious textiles. Discreet diagonal welt pockets are seamlessly integrated into the velvet panels, preserving the purity of the design.

Renowned for redefining the relationship between body, movement, and fabric, Issey Miyake consistently explored innovative silhouettes inspired by Japanese tradition and modern design. This coat exemplifies that philosophy through its sculptural proportions, restrained palette, and sophisticated interplay of materials.